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BALI LIVING STORIES & ESSAYS |
3. FABULOUS BALI !
It has been a while since
our last entry, but we have been hanging out in Bali—most
of the time at our house on the quiet north coast and a few
days in Ubud—the town in the center of Bali that is the
center for the arts and a quiet town with great restaurants—more
about Ubud later.
The question people
ask about Bali is "Does the real Bali still exist or has
it become just another tourist destination?" The answer
is yes and no. There is a section of this much fabled island
that has been built up and caters to young surfers, bar hoppers,
and party people; there is an area that is just large multinational
hotels (many 5 Star)which attracts Asians and Westerners looking
for sun and surf; there are, scattered throughout Bali, a number
of fabulous 7 Star hotels that are tucked away along rivers
and rice fields with incredible views, great dining facilities
and private villas. There are also many expats from America,
Europe and Australia who live here—some have businesses
(many owned by Japanese, Singaporeans and Westerners), some
are here to get massages, study yoga and take classes in the
arts and some have lots of money, and can afford beautiful designer-homes
in secluded areas (there are quite a few publications in English,
some very slick, that cater to these expats). Almost all of
this activity is in the south and east, but there is much more
happening all over the Island—the Balinese are living
their lives the way they have for centuries, and it is this,
the awesome natural beauty in the countryside and the sparsely
inhabited north, central and west that make Bali such a marvelous
and fascinating place--and make it a place to return to again
and again. One doesn't have to go far to find and meet the wonderfully
warm, friendly and sincere Balinese people—they are everywhere--making
their daily offerings to the Gods, performing their age-old
temple ceremonies (and these go on often because there are so
many temples) and going about their daily business. The beauty
of Bali is to be found everywhere--the peopel and everything
they do is infused with a natural beauty and feel for grace
and serenity.
Both Barbara and
I have been to Bali a few times in the past and we have both
read quite a bit about their rich and complex culture, and complex
it is! Their religion which is a nature oriented Hinduism is
unique to this small island alone, which is in the middle of
the largest Muslim country in the world—how this came
about is a story all of it's own. The way this religion is played
out in their daily lives and in everything they do is the main
factor that makes these peopel so unusual.
There is also a long
and rich culture of music, dance, and art including painting,
sculpture, batik, silver, etc. which is as strong today as ever
mostly because the great percentage of what is produced here
now is exported. During our stays in Ubud we went to a different
music and dance performance every night and saw a wide range
of performances as there are as many as nine different shows
going on in the Ubud area nightly. The music is mostly the metallic
Gamelan orchestra (sometimes all bamboo) which usually consists
of anywhere from 10-40 people and the members of these groups
perform for their temple ceremonies (mostly) and some in the
larger towns for the public--this music is an integral part
of their religion.
Ubud is just about
the most traveler-friendly town of anyplace we ever been to
and although it has grown, it is still a small town. There are
more shops, hotels and restaurants that reach for the more moneyed
tourist, but for the most part inexpensive rooms and food are
still available and all excellent quality. Bali is almost a
self sufficient paradise--rice fields are ubiquitous and can
be seen in-between shops and outside the windows of most bungalows
in Ubud and everywhere. The year-round, consistently warm climate
makes for a rich and fertile soil that supports almost any crop,
including great coffee and spices, and there are even a number
of organic farms. The high quality of the food and the Balinese
way of adapting to the needs, wants and desires of the traveler
results in more excellent, exciting restaurants than one could
possibly visit. The eateries can be simple shops serving fried
rice or noodles, but mostly we have been eating in the better
establishments that serve highly creative dishes utilizing all
the local produce (lots of ginger, garlic, shallots and lemongrass),
spices, tempeh, chicken and seafood. Our breakfasts in Ubud
have been marvelous affairs with crunchy granola, sweet &
tangy yogurt, pastries and a huge variety of omelets and pancakes
to choose from. Lunches have been, for the most part original,
inventive salads, and for dinner? Well, don't ask! Last night
was fresh sushi, all from local waters, and before that it's
been one great meal after another. We have also eaten more than
once from the ubiquitous Babi Guleng Warungs (shops)--Babi Guleng
consists of a plate of rice topped with the meat from various
parts of a freshly roasted suckling pig (with all the juices),
and a more succulent plate of pork you cannot imagine! Now all
this might sound expensive, but no, all for a fraction of dining
at home.
Speaking of rice,
the whole rice culture is a truly fascinating aspect of life
in Bali as their fields have to be communally operated in order
for them to exist. Water must be irrigated and must flow from
field to field so cooperatioon is essential amongst the farmers.
There are even rice temples, as there are temples for the family,
community, for death, nature and large temples for whole areas
of the country, plus a few Mother Temples in the most magnificent
settings on the island.
Before leaving Ubud
and the rest of Bali I want to mention the incredible massages
available. This can be a simple, relaxing massage, but why settle
for just that when a full two hour deal can be booked for a
few dollars? And what a trip these deals are! Rubs with oils,
herbs, sea salt, yogurt spices and baths in milk, flowers, herbs,
etc.
The options go on
and on and all in the simple, beautiful Balinese fashion with
all the sounds and smells that surround us and in rooms that
are open on one side overlooking rice fields!
We spent a couple
of days with car and driver touring various temples, palaces,
a cold and a hot spring, the rice fields of central Bali and
various other beautiful sites.
Almost two years
ago Barbara and I and our friends Steve and Kathy bought a house
on the north coast (right on the Bali Sea) in the small farming/fishing
village of Tejakula. Our house, which we call Villa Sunrise
because it faces east and catches a different, but always gorgeous
sunrise every morning, is surrounded by powerful scents from
all the flowers on the property and the constant sound of the
waves gently lapping the shore. I tell you, Bali is an amazing
assault on the senses. We are right next to a small European
health spa which is collectively owned and is very quiet and
meditative. The spa, Gaia Oasis, has a pool and small restaurant
that is available to us and are they make great neighbors. Beside
the resort all the people living behind and next to us are Balinese
fishermen and farmers. We have learned much about their lives
and habits during our past few weeks there and feel very close
to their simple, but elegant culture. Since we cooked most of
our meals whilst at the house (and what a relief it was after
6 months of eating exclusively in restaurants!) we shopped at
the markets and bought fish from the fishermen as they docked
their boats in front of our house. The Balinese are the warmest
most wonderful people we have ever met and their children (who
are revered like children nowhere else in the world) are incredibly
open, funny and sweet. We just love these people!
A footnote
about the Antonio Blanco Museum in Ubud that we visited. This
Spanish (self-named: the Dali of Bali) artist moved to Bali
in 1952 (and died in 1998 at the age of 88), married a Balinese
woman and had children, all the while making a fortune selling
his paintings of mostly bare-breasted island women and erotic
subjects. His Italian Renaissance Museum and home are a bit
over-the-top but it is definitely interesting and we passed
a pleasant few hours there.
Henry.
